When the global economy fizzes so do Champagne sales. In Reims or Épernay, evidence of the boom being enjoyed by the Champagne industry is not hard to find. At Pol Roger, work is due to start shortly on a €3m extension to the cellars. Krug is building a new tasting room and visitor reception area. Even small, relatively unknown producers such as Roger Coulon are investing in new vats and bottling machinery.

Champagne sales reached a record 320m bottles last year. And the new wealth being created in countries such as Brazil, Russia, India and China has added potentially vast markets for the Champenois to exploit. Their biggest headache is making enough of the stuff. "The real problem in Champagne is sourcing grapes," says Laurent d'Harcourt, export director at Pol Roger. "There is very limited capacity, which constrains our growth potential."